Play biting
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Thread: Play biting

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
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    DefaultPlay biting

    Well, it was the first weekend with Bailey & it's been fun (but very tiring!!!), but it' been rainy & have not had too much outside time.* (On a side-note potty training is going very well!!)* I know I've read a number of posts on play biting, but just wanted to get everyone's suggestions on what they do when the pup starts to play bite to get them to stop (I know it's normal when they're young).* Bailey's was pretty good about it the first couple days, but yesterday & today she seems to be more assertive when trying to play bite.* Any ideas are appreciated!!

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  3. #2
    Chester B. Dickens is offline Senior Member
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    DefaultRe: Play biting

    Substitute.

    Either give Bailey something to bite OTHER than your fingers (and praising her for doing it).

    OR

    Find another activity she's ALLOWED to do to your fingers, like kiss.

    Praise/correct to modify the behavior in either instance.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
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    62

    DefaultRe: Play biting

    I agree with the above post. Its just a matter of diverting her attention off your hands to other toys. And remember to be consistent with correcting her. She will eventually get the hint. Good luck

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  6. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
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    DefaultRe: Play biting

    Gently hold your dogs snot closed and say no bite. Usually they whine if you hold it that way for 2-3 seconds. Let them know its unexceptable right up front.

    I've heard that ignoring the dog the second they bite works as well. Usually if you say no bite and hold their snot, they get the point, but this doesn't mean it will completely stop. Allie continued to nip until her adult teeth came in, then one day she just stopped.

  7. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    175

    DefaultRe: Play biting

    Personally I think it depends on the dog. Callie has been with us for three weeks, three days and six hours and 26 minutes....just kidding, but she has been with us for just over three weeks..

    In the beginning, she would "attack" our legs and feet and it hurt....badly. We tried the distraction thing...saying "no bite" and giving her a toy to play with. It didn't really work too well.....so we tried the ignore her thing and she drew blood a few times.

    In the end, we did the snout thing along with the "no bite" command and then followed with a toy. That combination did the trick....although she still tends to nip and chew on our ten year old son...thinks he's a litter mate I believe, because he is the closest in size to her. He is still working on the commands but we are making progress.

    Just try to find what works with your puppy...and be patient.

  8. #6
    Bob Pr. is offline Senior Member
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    Feb 2009
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    Lawrence (ex-Topeka), KS
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    DefaultRe: Play biting

    Distract & Substitute

    (The following is adapted from posts made in many prior JL forums)

    Let me offer you a solution that worked well for my Puff (YF, field line, 63 lbs. dob 8-'01) and me when Puff was a pup.

    First, recognize that all normal puppies are chewers.* They must chew -- it's not an issue of training them not to do it.* They need to do it to accomplish the exchange of puppy teeth for adult teeth. Some Lab pups can be trained to NOT chew certain body parts or objects -- but many cannot.

    So I always kept some Hartz Mountain chew sticks with me.* These are made of small pieces of compressed rawhide held together by a flavored medium, about the size of a cigarillo. They come maybe 300 to a package at WalMart.

    Since the rawhide is in very small pieces, even when they're swallowed, they won't create intestinal blockages.*

    There are many manufacturers of similar products but most are made in third world countries without our animal health food standards and as no-name brands.* My guiding principle is that it MUST have
    -- a company name and full address,
    -- a toll free number, and
    -- a guarantee of customer satisfaction
    to justify* buying it
    (and preferably be made in the US, UK, or Canada).* If it doesn't have all three (or 4) of those, don't get it.* Many people have reported their pups got stomach upsets from chewing these.*

    I suspect that's often because the chew sticks came from questionable sources and undesirable chemicals were used in their processing.* But, just as not every Lab pup's digestive system will be comfortable with any one particular food formula, a few upsets surely occured because of differences there, too.
    * *
    Whenever Puff attacked my ankles or hands, I'd whip out a chew stick from my pocket to distract her and substitute one of those.* Their flavor was much more attractive to Puff than my skin -- or the table leg or computer cord.

    It* worked every time.

    I'd often find myself thankfully muttering about the chew sticks words similar to* the American Express card* slogan -- "Don't go anywhere without it."

    There are some people who do not like Hartz Mountain products or their typical* ingredients.* But on this, it was a matter of either-or survival and using the HM chew sticks was certainly the least bad choice for us.* Now that I know more about food and quality companies, if I'd seen similar chew sticks made by mfrs like Diamond, Eukanuba, Nutro, or Purina -- any of those would have been even better.* *(While all those companies do make treats,* the chewsticks are far lower in kcals.)

    Puff never had a stomach upset on the HM product so it worked out very well for us.
    Puff [YF, AKC field line (from competing HT/FT breeder) 62 lbs, dob: 8-'01]

    Bess [BF, AKC bench line (from competing show breeder) 55 lbs., 1967-1981] "Poor Bess, the Wonder Dog":
    http://forum.justlabradors.com/showt...?p=748#post748

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