Lesson for Assignment 3 - Freezing an action shot...
This assignment is about capturing you dog in motion and FREEZING the image. You can definitely take what you learned in assignment one and two and hopefully get a great "action shot". REMEMBER - you want to "FREEZE" the motion.
Things to remember:
1) This is all about shutter speed...the faster your shutter speed the more likely you will get that FREEZE action shot.
2) The faster your object is moving, the faster the shutter speed needs to be. FYI...1/500 is faster than 1/250, which is faster than 1/125 and so on...
3) I would recommend starting about 1/300 to 1/400 of a second and getting faster if need be.
4) You can do this with a flash as well if you want - the flash alone will help you get that freeze shot (sometimes)
5) If you have a dlsr, I recommend setting the dial to "S" and the ISO to 100. Then go outside and set the speed to 1/400 of a second (to start with, you may be able to go up or down a notch) and let the camera determine what the aperture (f #) should be. Keep in mind, the dog may be running in and out of light as you click away.
6) Most cameras have something called continuous shooting...which allows you to hold the shutter down and take anywhere from 1-3 frames per second. Very helpful when freezing a shot
7) If there is not enough available light to take the shot at at least 1/300 of a second, then up the ISO to 200 , then 400, then 800 if need be. Just remember, the fast the shutter speed, the better, but the higher the ISO, the more grain will appear in the image...
8) I would attempt to get an aperture around the 6-11 range to keep your whole subject in focus and sharp. If your camera tells you the aperture at 1/300 of a second is 2.8, then you may actually blur part of your dog. Most lens have a sweet spot between F8-11 in terms of sharpness, keep that in mind.
9) Try to get the whole subject in the frame with some background, otherwise it will be hard to see that FREEZE.
10) Most dlsr have something call continuous focus (C) or Manual focus (M) or selected focus (S). I recommend continuous focus. This way, as your subject moves, your camera as you hold the shutter halfway down will focus over and over and over again really quickly. It is not bullet proof, but it works.
11) Don't be afraid to hold the shutter down and take 10 shots at once...you can always erase then and keep the winners....hopefully you will have many.
12) While composition is tough with a moving dog, don't forget what you learned in lesson 1 - exposure...try to determine your setting ahead of time...and if you can, set the image up so you can use your new composition skills..
Please post your pictures by TUESDAY, February 6, 2007 AT NOON.
Feel free to post questions in the question thread for Assignment 3.
Post your best shot in the "Post Shot Here - Assignment 3" thread.
Some quick examples...
focal length: 104mm (208mm in 35mm)
exposure time: (1/320)
focal length: 108mm
exposure time: (1/500)
focal length: 71mm
exposure time: (1/2000) I should have went with about 1/1000 and a higher aperture - say f/6.0
FYI - The newer Canon (XTi & 30d) dslr owners don't have a "S" mode... But the Shutter-priority AE (Tv) mode works great for action shots...
Jimbo, the "S" mode is called TV on most Canon dSLRs. I have a Rebel XT. Most all Canons have TV, AV, and M.
Eiderdowns That's My Buddy
CDX, RE, WC, CGC, TDInc.
I kinda figured that but I wasn't sure...Originally Posted by buddysmom
This holds true for Pentax as well.Originally Posted by buddysmom