Not to steal Linda's idea, but I actually just shot a couple videos of Zeke in agility when I found the one Linda posted (Ruger's weaves are infinitely better). Ruger makes Zeke look lazy and old (I doubt there is much age difference...Zeke is 7). Ruger seems more fit and muscular, while Zeke is flabby and runs like a rag doll at the moment :P
I must point out that Zeke is REALLY out of shape (been cooped up, gained several pounds this summer, was supposedly 'retired'), it was a bajillion degrees, and he hasn't been worked in about 11mos (he was retired). Part of it, however, is probably laziness on his part. I know he can do better...it's just hard to squeeze it out of him.
First time worked in 11mos - I literally set up the course, turned the camera on, and videoed what happened next. No practice or warm up whatsoever.
Take 3 - same course. Run 2 was also videoed, but it was too much like #1 to bother with. I changed up some things to try and get run 3 to work.
Tips on motivating him are appreciated...even when he's in better condition he has a tendency to get sloppy and slow after the first couple sequences. It loses its novelty even if the course changes. He's getting better, but his attention span is quite poor.
I have 2 more clips currently uploading where I was trying something different - I'll try and post those once I get them up.
Last edited by ZRL; 08-11-2009 at 11:04 PM.
I think your video clips are fantastic. Zeke looks great! I've missed seeing you working your dogs. Your old videos gave me the idea for mine
Ruger is 7 going on 8 (he will be 8 in Feb, time FLIES!!!)
Just wanted to add... are you treating him after clicking? Have you tried using the treats as a way to teach him to drive out more? Place them in a container and have Zeke drive to them.
I use Ruger's ball for motivation. We've been working really hard on the weaves (as you can tell his entries suck, he goes in the 2nd pole probably 80% of the time). We have really shaved off time on the weaves, he's gotten faster, which is a good thing!! I don't let him have the ball until he's done the weaves correctly.
Last edited by 3TailsWaggin; 08-11-2009 at 11:14 PM.
Here are the last two videos:
I am treating after clicking. I think in the second set of videos you can see where I started to use the target (the blue bowl) to get him to drive out - it seems to work better than holding the treat myself (although I am actually holding the treat and throwing it in the bowl at the end to keep him from being able to rob the target without actually doing the course). When he gets really lazy I've been known to run up behind him and pinch his bottom, but I can't exactly do that all the time :P
Unfortunately he doesn't have much ball drive and isn't a big fan of physical praise (I could train my other two on belly rubs alone!). Treats seem to be my best bet, but I am having a hard time teaching him that slow isn't good enough. If I treat for speed only, he doesn't "get it" and wanders off rather than running faster. I think we're having a communication issue.
Last edited by ZRL; 08-11-2009 at 11:36 PM.
That first one made me laugh, the look on your face when Zeke stole the bowl, Bwhahahah!!! Too funny. What a cutie he is.
To get more speed, try setting up jump chutes (lines of jumps) vary the jump heights, practice sending Zeke over them to the target, and also calling him over them.
BTW, do you always jump at full height? I rarely do. We usually jump about 16" in practice and only move up to full height about a week before a trial. Ruger will drop a lot of bars at 16", but rarely ever drops one at his full height in competition, go figure I just try to save wear and tear on joints.
I think I added a bit to my last post while you were replying..I'm bad about editing too much.
As for stealing the bowl - our previous trainer made us bring our own target if we wanted to use one even though she had a whole stack for all the other students. He was dubbed the "target theif" and several of hers were...ah...eaten.
I have been practicing at full height because he doesn't really "look before he leaps" sometimes. I suppose I could lower them for now since we're not competing at the moment. Varying the heights might be good for teaching him to pay attention to the jump....
(I've been training mostly on my own for a long time...and I've never trained a dog before Zeke...so we miss out on the insight of those who are more experienced).
Edit: If I can get out there before it's 90+ tomorrow, I'm going to try to get a video of him doing a varied height jump chute to post. I move back to school Saturday, so it will be one of the last chances I have to play around with his agility for a while. I'm still tempted to come home a couple weekends in a row and try and show him in September (it's a repeat of the only show he ever finished a course in...one year ago). I dunno though, he's likely to embarass the heck out of me (the usual).
Last edited by ZRL; 08-11-2009 at 11:47 PM.
As promised: http://s118.photobucket.com/albums/o...Aug12th001.flv
Still not 100%, but it does seem to help him jump more independently. His rear crosses are really weak because he doesn't like doing an obstacle by himself. Maybe I *should* get another dog when I graduate and just make him so jealous he tries harder :P (kidding)
Edit: the jumps have been lowered to a range of 17-20" I'll probably stick to no higher than 20 from now on anyway, especially since I can show him in preferred AKC where he'll be in the 20" class (he'll be at least 8 by the time we try another AKC show).
Last edited by ZRL; 08-12-2009 at 09:34 AM.
I have to wait until I get to work to watch the video (yes, I am the ONLY one left in the world that has dialup access!!).
I show Ruger and Remington in Preferred. They jump 20". In USDAA I show them in Performance and they jump 22" (they would have to jump 26" in USDAA). In CPE they can jump at 16".
I figure there is no point in starting AKC at full height with a "senior" dog. He'll be 8 by the time I graduate college, so he won't really be showing before then and even after that we probably won't even show more than a handful of times in a given year (assuming he behaves). The only reason not to do preferred is if you want a MACH and we're never going to show enough to rack up all those points (assuming he can Q :P)
I am realllyyy tempted to enter a NADAC show for next month - it's the same one I showed him in last year which resulted in the ONLY course he has EVER FINISHED in an official competition. Unfortunately it was over time because he did get distracted a bit (but didn't leave the ring, which is what he normally does). His attitude is the best it has ever been, but the fall semester will interfere.
About dial up - the only reason I am not still on dial up is because we can't get any television reception without basic cable (8-10 channels) and the cable company had a deal for internet. If our TV would work without cable...we'd have dial up :P
Last edited by ZRL; 08-12-2009 at 09:58 AM.
We don't even have cable where I live. I could get satellite internet, but its WAY too expensive, so I just stick with my dialup. I can do all the fancy, fast stuff at work.
I think your weaves are good. He does them independantly without relying on you for constant body cues or motion. It seems to me you are most concerned regarding jumping motivation and him taking jumps. In my opinion you need to support the jumps with your body until he commits to them. What I mean is using your shoulders to point at the intended obstacle. I am not recommeding babysitting or crowding the obstacle. Also, he may find it more motivating if you are more motivated yourself. You have to be more interesting than anything else out on the field. I love his enthusiasm. He is a beautiful dog.