Drop question
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Thread: Drop question

  1. #1
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    DefaultDrop question

    This is what we've been doing so far with my non-dropping dog - I've gotten her to the point we were could drop her behind the bar jump with me a few feet behind the bar, then I slowly built up to all the way across the ring. At that point, I substituted a smaller bar with no problems. Yesterday I set up three similar bars and dropped her at various bars (you know...dropped her in front of bar one..then bar three...?). She LOVED that game and was great at it. We've also continued to practice down in motions.

    How do I continue the transition to no-bar? And am I missing any foundational steps here?

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  3. #2
    3TailsWaggin's Avatar
    3TailsWaggin is offline Senior Member
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    DefaultRe: Drop question

    It sounds good to me. I would also be sure to take her and drop her in places she's least expecting. For a dog to do a "down" its a submissive thing for them. When they are stressed, as they will be at a show, if you have a dog that is hesitant on downs to begin with, they fail to down at the show. Trust me, Ruger does this all the time. His downs and drops are probably our most troublesome problem.


  4. #3
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    DefaultRe: Drop question

    It sounds great so far. We do the bar drops also. Something else we do is to toss a cookie to one side or behind the dog. Once they get it and turn toward you, ask for a drop. They should turn and drop like a rock (assuming your drop command is timed right). They think that is a great game also, because they get treats to boot!

    Another "game" is to do drops with "down backs". First you need a "down back" on the dog. (Where the dog backs up in a down position). Drop the dog in any if you training scenerios and then ask for a "down-back" as soon as their elbows hit the ground. You start out training it right in front of you but can work up to across the room. It enforces the idea they when doing a drop, there should be no forward motion at all. You can also do this with "sit-backs" . Both the sit-backs and down-backs can become almost automatic and are quite flashy when doing signals, go-outs and DOR.

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  6. #4
    patm's Avatar
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    DefaultRe: Drop question

    Emilu and I have been working on this too. First she had to learn the Sphinx drop, which she had never learned (we just "lay down" on her side leg for long sits and downs). That didn't take too long to learn the basics, then we had to do it in a fold-back posititon - that has taken longer. We are finally at the point where it is "fun" for her. We are often walking, or whatever and I whirl in front of her and give her a "drop signal" - she loves seeing how fast she can do it. I am also starting to do it further away from her, but she doesn't always drop back yet. But it's coming along nicely, she knows what I want now and is finding it fun instead of stressful.

  7. #5
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    DefaultRe: Drop question

    Your logic sounds good to me!

    As far as fading the bar, could you use a thin long dowel, then a shorter one, then a shorter one, and then a shorter one? Would that work?


  8. #6
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    windycanyon is offline Senior Member
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    DefaultRe: Drop question

    I teach the drop from a stand first, and for distance, I put a long line on them, feed the long line around a pole/tree whatever so they CANT move forward. When I combine the recall w/ the drop, this is all on long line also. I time the drop when they run out of line. ;D

    WindyCanyon Girls, August 2014

  9. #7
    patm's Avatar
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    DefaultRe: Drop question

    I like that idea - sounds like it would work pretty well

  10. #8
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    DefaultRe: Drop question

    Quote Originally Posted by henrysmom
    Your logic sounds good to me!

    As far as fading the bar, could you use a thin long dowel, then a shorter one, then a shorter one, and then a shorter one? Would that work?
    I think so! I talked to my instructor last night and she thought we could go to progressively smaller dowels or maybe the leash. I'm just worried about when "nothing is there."

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