After reading all the replies to Lindas letter to AKC, I need some help on something. Emilu likes to jump, and hasn't had any trouble with the Rally jumps because they are low, although we did get points off for her ticking a broad jump in our last show. She has more trouble with the broad jump, and I am worried about the higher heights in Open. She is tallish - 22 inches, but a little "broad" herself and she isn't the best jumper. She often ticks jumps in practice. I know she can do the jumps because if I run with her, or call her to me over the jump she can do it. But I don't know how to teach her to "jump well", so as not to tick, or injure herself. How do you teach a dog to jump properly?
This is something I'm working on with Soph, as she's not confident jumping at her competition height...
Susan Salo is the name in agility - her 'jump grids' are based on training horses to jump.
more info here: http://agilitynerd.com/blog/agility/...r_2004_08.html
and some videos here, about half way down the page
Thanks for the links.
Susan Clothier has a good series on jumping too. http://flyingdogpress.com/Merchant2/...tegory_Code=BB
IMO, the best thing for teaching jumping is cavellettis.
As for the broad jump, you can put the bar jump across the broad jump to teach the dog this is a jump. It also helps them learn to jump up and over vs. flat and over which is why she's ticking the jump. You can fade the bar jump over time.
A friend uses clear acrylyc rods like this (http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/pro...uct%5Fid=21166) in an X over the jump. The dog can't see the X but will hit it if she doesn't jump thru the center.
Along those lines you can use chicken wire on the landing side of the jump. Most dogs don't like the feeling of landing on it. Murray didn't care. :
Some dogs tick the jump because they are cutting the corner. To help with this, set a pylon out about 3' from the end of the jump and teach the dog they have to go around the pylon before fronting.
A trick I use for dogs that cut the BJ is to stick my leg out as the dog jumps. If you do this all the time in practice, they assume you will do it in a show too but of course you don't.
FYI, in practice I make Murray jump an ~52" BJ so I know he'll have no issue clearing 48" in competition.
Pat I take about four jumps and set them up about 6 feet apart initially. I have them set at 16 inches. I leave Caleb on a sit/wait and go to the other end and call him through (a couple of times to first train this I went half way). I wanted him to learn to properly collect himself to jump. I do this a couple of times a week still as a reminder. Before I compete I add a high jump at the end the height he jumps in the ring.
Broad jump I will put a bar jump over it to add height, chicken wire, etc to get the height. Again I begin by calling them over the jump like a recall.
UCDX GRCH Dunn's Marsh Caleb of Waltona UDX3, OM3, RAE Canadian UD, RE
FallRiver's Micah of Waltona GN RAE, Canadian CD, RN
I tilt up the back board on the broad jump, also add the Utility jump bar along the right side (will need to do both sides if they change that part of the BJ rules!) sticking out ~3' past the end. I call over from the opposite side, then do run by's, then throw toys, food (visible stuff) or use target plates to teach a long stride from the side position.
Everything height wise needs to be done in increments over time to properly condition for the jump. Anne
WindyCanyon Girls, August 2014
One thing I like to do also is to run my dogs down a line of jumps where all the jump heights are staggered. Set one at 8", one at 20" one at 12" one at 24", etc. This really helps them to learn to judge the jump for themselves and to collect themselves properly for the jump.
Also, do in and outs (that's what we called them when I rode horses). Set up your jumps in a line so that the dog lands and must take off again for the next jump. You'll have to watch your dog jump to gauge his stride and then adjust your jumps accordingly. Again, this type of jumping helps the dog (or horse) to learn to collect himself, round his back and use himself correctly over the jump.
I really hate seeing dogs that "springboard" over jumps. They look like pogo-sticks. This is NOT correct jumping form, and these dogs are going to end up injured. Oddly, I do see a lot of labs that jump this way.
Me too.... Not just Labs either!
But what you do have to worry about w/ retrieving over the jumps is when that darned dumbbell sticks too close, and the dog jumps, tweaks its head down to snatch it and lands wrong. This has happened more in practice to me when I didn't realize it had landed much too close to the jump.
WindyCanyon Girls, August 2014
lots of great advice here already - like raian I'm old time horse person so I do a lot of foundation work ..
one thing I do is vary the drill - I don't want a predictable routine.. different sequences, different heights
another thing I try hard to always do is vary my position - I think jumping should be independant
the dog should be able to jump well when recalled to you
recalled from side (typ obed position) when you move with dog on left and right side (some dogs have trouble with one more then the other) and sending the dog down line
each have challenges but if you can confidently do each your dog will have a much better understanding of HOW to jump
“I am only one, but still I am one. I cannot do everything, but still I can do something; and because I cannot do everything, I will not refuse to do something that I can do.” H. Keller
Just FYI, Linda and Susan are describing cavelletti work. multiple jumps in a row, staggering heights and spacing.