If anyone has done the 2x2 method, can you watch these and see if I am doing this correctly. Remington seems to need me to move forward to send him. Ruger will go to the weaves on his own. Is it okay that I move forward with Remington?
Ruger was pretty confused at the start, but caught on quickly.
Remington seems more focused on the food I am throwing (he won't work for the ball).
I'm having trouble with videos on this computer, so I can't view them, but the idea of 2 x 2's is that the dog is doing them independently - so no guiding or helping.
Set the dog up right in front of the poles, so that he doesn't have a choice - click any movement toward or through the poles, and throw the food/toy through/past the poles so that the dog continues forward movement.
The idea is that they are not keying on your movement but doing it independently..couple of things I see in the video is that you are starting to far from the poles..when I start a dog I am standing right by the poles..as soon as a nose is turned towards the poles or starts between the poles the food/toy is tossed on the reward line..and then start upping the response to head thru the poles to body thru the poles..then I take a step away from the poles..also you want to keep the reward line the same and change the oreintation of the poles...
Sometimes you have to wait for quite a bit to get them to offer the behavior.
I don't understand what you mean by this, can you explain?keep the reward line the same and change the oreintation of the poles...
Okay, I will not offer any movement. What about voice, do you tell your dog to go weave? Or stay quiet throughout?
Initially, no cue - susan garrett adds the cue once the dog is reliably doing the first gate, BUT uses a different cue then 'weave' (in Shaping Success, she suggests "noodle"
going to presume to answer for debjen:
if you start with the poles like so:
(x is the reward)
then move the poles to an angle
the reward line stays the same, so the dog is moving straight through what will eventually be the line of weaves.
Are you working from her Shaping Success book or her new DVD?
Last edited by kaytris; 09-30-2009 at 11:43 PM.
Okay, I guess I don't see why you have to physically move the poles. Why not move the dog's position to the poles. I do toss the reward in the direction they need to go, so I think I'm okay on that.
Not understanding why you would use the word "noodle" for weave.
she changes the cue because the 2 x 2's look different than 'real weaves', and she wants the dog to distinguish the two.
The poles have to be moved, that's how the dog learns the weaving... starts out with a pair of poles
and you then begin angling them gradually
and working the clock (if the gates are at 12 oclock, you start with the dog at 6, then work around 5, 4, 3, 7, etc)
The DVD and/or the book will help clarify this process for you...
You can talk to your dog and in fact get them a little jazzed up..I usually just use a "ready ready go"... but again no motion from me until they are going pretty good..then you start mixing it up with motion and no motion..
I'm not sure sure I've seen an explanation from her about why you change the oreintation of the poles but the way I see it the dog is always suppose to be going in the same direction and since you are sometimes moving the poles oreintation during the same lesson you move them not the dog's path so that it is easier for them..don't know if that makes sense or not.
Ah ha! I should have read this before I started this morning. I stood there and didn't move or make a sound and guess what, my dogs didn't move or make a sound either.get them a little jazzed up..I usually just use a "ready ready go"
Then I got really frustrated and thought, "this is absolutely stupid and counter-intuitive." And I got my dogs jazzed up and told them "go" and it worked much better.
Unfortunately I absolutely cannot afford the DVD or her weave poles. I am really struggling financially right now So I'm watching youtube videos of people doing this method and trying to get the information from what I see.
I really appreciate all the info you are sharing with me!!!
try to fade the jazz up as soon as you can
this is one place I REALLY see the difference between shaping and luring as training methods
Sally has been wholly shaped - I wait for the behaviour I want then mark and reward it
Thea has been mainly lured up until quite recently - she needs to be jazzed up to get her to think to offer new bahviours
Brody was more traditionally trained, lured and shaped - now he's a quick study so I can fade the pysc up quickly but it really doesn't occur to him to offer beahviours unless he knows it's reward time
move the poles not the dog as it keeps things as simple and clear as possible for the dog - they don't have to change what they do - they get rewarded for repeating the same behaviour .. it actually makes a BIG difference (again - the things you learn by trying!)
“I am only one, but still I am one. I cannot do everything, but still I can do something; and because I cannot do everything, I will not refuse to do something that I can do.” H. Keller