Fetching!?
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Thread: Fetching!?

  1. #1
    twsnow18 is offline Member
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    PostFetching!?

    Tuckers 13 weeks and were workin on fetching for hunting obviously. We play every other day and I only toss him 4 or 5 throws, trying to leave him wanting more. Does this sound about right as far as amount? Then When I toss him something to fetch he runs gets it and runs back somewhat by me then when I try to grab it he runs with it from me. What should I do in that situation?

    I was thinking put him on a long lead and give him little tugs to initiate delivering to hand and maybe give him a treat or something?

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    13 weeks is just a youngster. The amount sounds fine. Do your baby fetching in a hallway where he has nowhere to go but back to you. Don't take it from him immediately, praise him (make a big fuss like he has done the greatest thing in the world), then throw again. I would suggest immediately getting Jackie Merten's DVD "Sound Beginnings" or Evan Graham's puppy DVD, as all this and much more will be covered to give you a sound foundation for more formalized training when he gets his permanent teeth.
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    twsnow18 is offline Member
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    Oh ok good idea. Yah I went to Cabelas and Sportsman's Warehouse they were out of those so I grabbed Chris Akins video. It's not bad, has some good stuff in it for only $20 but all the dogs he demonstrates with look like they would fetch until they couldn't breathe anymore.

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    Why is that an issue? Akin trains "cream of the crop" bred hunting, hunt test and FT dogs. That is how most of them are wired. You can develop similar enthusiasm in most (but not all) decently bred dogs. You just take it in little bites.

    You can get Evan's stuff at Rush Creek Press online/The Smartwork System or Jackie Merten's off Dog Training Collars SALE. Tri-tronics for Retrievers, Hunting Dogs, Bird Dogs. Save on Innotek, Petsafe, DT Systems, Dogtra, & Tritronics Dog Collars.
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    I guess it's just that his video is called duck dog basics and he states in it that it's for the average person just looking to hunt with their pup, not do field trials or competitions. Tucker gets bored fetching much more quickly than his sister whom my friend has. I don't think I should be worried but I really want to hunt with the little guy, hes so funnyand smart. One more question, have you have had a dog that is just a straight vacuum? Tucker eats every tiny little molecule of paper, crumbs or anything on the floor. I'm talking anything at all, I call it vacuum mode. I know labs eat a ton, but he's just ridiculous, he will eat or drink water until I stop giving it to him or he gets so bloated he can barely walk.

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    Akin has a waiting list to get spots on his truck. He can pick and chose his dogs. Most everything he trains is very well bred. Just b/c a puppy is "very well bred" does not mean its going to be anything more than a hunting dog. Reality is that the basics are pretty much the same up through swim-by, no matter for a hunting dog, hunt test dog, or field trial dog. Keep on a program, don't skip steps, and you should end up with a fine hunting dog that you will be proud to own, and a dog that is proud to be owned by you!
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    twsnow18 is offline Member
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    It's just so daunting with all the information and different methods etc. especially with trainers and other people saying their way is the best etc. As it is my first puppy and quite overwhelming but I'm having fun with him. Alright, thanks for the encouragement GulfCoast I really appreciate it.

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    It will all work out! The best thing that you can do is get a mentor. Check for local HRC or AKC hunt test clubs. They will put on training days and you can meet up with training groups, and find a mentor. Having someone around that has "been there and done that" can really be a help!
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    I just posted this in the Training/Puppy sub-forum:

    Personally, I'm not a big fan of giving "treats" to dogs for behvioral reinforcement. I prefer rewards like affirming words, petting, hugging and giving the dog a favorite toy and some free play time. That way they don't see you as merely a food dispenser. They obey because they want to please you rather than because you'll give them food.

    If you haven't tried this, give it a try and report back:

    1. Throw the ball a short distance - maybe ten feet
    2. Assuming the dog picks up the ball, squat down, call his name and pat a spot directly in front of you with the palm of your hand (pat the spot, don't slap it - your hand should make a noise, but not an alarming noise)
    3. When the dog comes to the spot, reward him in the way that he responds to best (my dog loves to hear me say, "good boy" and be scratched behind the ears and have you put your face up near his; YMMV)
    4. While you're rewarding the dog, grasp the ball and give the release command (I use the word 'release')
    5. If he releases, reward him again ... generously
    6. If he doesn't release, press the thumb of the hand you're holding out (for him to release into) against his lip. Apply light pressure pressing the lip against his teeth. He should open his mouth and release the ball. If not, apply a bit more pressure and repeat the release command. Continue until he releases.
    7. Repeat 4-5 times
    8. Wait at least an hour before you repeat again
    I also like the idea of starting out in a hallway giving the dog little, if any, room to get around you.

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    I don't post here often but I will share what I do. My yellow lab did the samething I first started out doing short retieves and she would come back to me she would like to play keep away I just turned around and put my back to her she would follow me around I would keep doing this until she would relase the ball and then reward her give her a pet always end on a positive note.
    I hope this works for you not all dogs responde alike I was very lucky with her she recieved her JR Hunt Test Title at 10 months of age she was a awesome dog.Allthe best wishes for you. I don't know if it is ok here to post this but I will another good source of information is The Just Labs Magazine Hopefully I won't get banded

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