We are looking into getting my beloved Chocolate lab Hunter a remote training collar. We go out of province every summer to visit my folks and we bring our labs with us. Hunter is very sneaky and has gotten out numerous times at my parents thanks to my mom who is forgetful. This past time at Christmas, Hunter got out as per usual but this time headed towards the highway. We safely retrieved him. Hunter also has a love of barking outside, no matter what we have tried we cannot get him to stop. We are looking at getting him a remote training collar. We would like to use it to train him not to leave our site especially when camping and at my parents. We also would like to use it for barking control. He can be a handful camping and we just want him to be a part of our holidays. Oh I also plan on putting a board up to prevent him from escaping out my parents front door.
Any suggestions on how to go about using one. We are getting one that has a tone as well as static. He will not wear it all the time, just when needed. I feel strongly against the collar but we have to do something to keep him safe.
Hunter & Chrome
(The following is a copy of a post I've sometimes made.)
Before you get an e-collar, I recommend you first read and follow the training procedures in Jean Donaldson's "Culture Clash."
E-collars (IMO) do not make training easier or better; they certainly won't make the trainer even one iota wiser or better. They're a tool (like radial hand saws or nail guns are). And before buying one, I also recommend you get and read a book on e-collar training; others may have some other suggestions. I used the book by the Dobbs, "Tri-tronics (something or other)" And you must adequately "collar condition" your dog for a couple weeks before ever pressing its buttons.
I've had scores of graduate course hours in learning theories, taught applying them to graduate students in universities, and to college students in classes for decades-- and frankly, I was scared and apprehensive about using one because I knew how easy it would be to cause training damage that could be difficult or impossible to completely repair if used incorrectly.
Punishment and/or aversive stimulations are extremely difficult things to use effectively in training; that's why most training protocols use positive reinforcement.
But Puff & I had reached a point that a 50 ft (15 m) long line/check cord wasn't sufficient (skunks, moving trucks, etc.).
Puff wears a Dogtra 200 NCP e-collar for our every morning 40-60 minute walks in a nature preserve. This collar has a non-shock setting (the Pager, a vibration) that we use 99.999% of the time. The shock levels [either Nick or Continuous (5 sec. max)] can be infinitely varied and set at any level from "0" through "100". The level mine stays at is around "20" -- this is a level that I just barely feel as a brief tingle in my fingertips but it is one which Puff responds to. I rarely use the "N" and don't remember when I've ever used the C.
I DO like my Dogtra 200 NCP Gold -- so much so that I own two, just in case (something should happen to one). I've just replaced the batteries (about $30) in my older one (about 4+ years old). If and when you do get one, the Tri-Tronics and Dogtras are considered by many as the best. When last I looked, the TriTronics had about 5 discrete steps of stim level. I chose the Dogtra because of its Pager (non-shock) mode and its infinite steps of stim level.
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Puff [YF, AKC field line (from competing HT/FT breeder) 62 lbs, dob: 8-'01]
Bess [BF, AKC bench line (from competing show breeder) 55 lbs., 1967-1981] "Poor Bess, the Wonder Dog":
http://forum.justlabradors.com/showt...?p=748#post748
We got Emmett one right before Christmas. He has a Tritronics that will accommodate up to three collars. I have used them in the past but it's been years.
There are great videos on youtube from Tritronics that will give you the basics. The "shock" or "stimulation" as they call it is no worse than a collar correction if done correctly (maybe even better since there is not stress on the neck).
It came in the mail the day we left for my SIL who lives on 2 acres. The next day I got a long line and took Emmett out and taught him "here' and "whoa" He's a quick learner with months of obedience behind him so that probably helped.
The most important thing is the praise... So they get positive training. Also that they get used to the collar before training.
Good Luck!!
Amy
I got one for Diesel last spring. A SportDog SD400. It has 400 yard range, eight levels of stimulation with buttons for nick and continuous (5 second maximum), and a tone button. About all I ever have to use it the tone button, as an attention getter, like calling his name. I only use it to reinforce commands he already knows. Like Bob said, make sure to train yourself in its use before you ever put it on the dog.
My Lab is smarter than your honor student.
Deacon 12/1/1999-4/2/2012 RIP, bestest boy.
Thanks for the feedback. I do worry about the remote collar as I know it isnt the solution to everything. I just got info on a dog trainer in my city that does training to solve our leash agressive dogs, and working off leash. The training is very expensive but I think it will be worth it
Hunter & Chrome
I use them. HOWEVER....I only use them to REINFORCE stuff they already know. NOT to train them or to zing them for doing something that I don't want them to do. That is the INCORRECT use of an ecollar. Mine is for working in the field...at long distances. I would never use it to stop a dog from bolting, jumping, barking, etc. My suggestion is to keep a leash on him at all times or crate him when you can't supervise. An ecollar is not going to work if he doesn't get it in the first place.
Dani, Rider & Rookie
SHR Watson's Safari Rider, JH, WC, CL1-R, RA, CGC, TDI
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